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Coperni to Shut Down After Months-Long Dispute With Tomorrow London Group

Coperni to Shut Down After Months-Long Dispute With Tomorrow London Group

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Coperni is shutting down after eight years in business, bringing an end to one of Paris fashion’s most recognizable young labels. Founders Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer confirmed the closure on Wednesday in a personal statement emailed to members of the press and retail partners, saying that despite their efforts, no solution had been found to keep the business operating.

The designers described their time building the brand as extraordinary and expressed pride in what they had created, while acknowledging their sadness over the decision. The announcement follows months of uncertainty surrounding Coperni’s financial position and its efforts to separate from Tomorrow London Group, the company that has served as its majority shareholder and exclusive distributor since 2019.

Coperni’s Financial Troubles and Receivership

The situation escalated in June when a Paris commercial court granted Coperni’s request for court protection, placing the company into receivership on June 11. The move came as the founders attempted to regain control of the business amid growing financial difficulties.

At the time, Vaillant said the company had been under significant financial pressure for several months, alleging that Tomorrow had stopped paying amounts owed to the brand’s partners and suppliers. He described the court proceedings as an effort to preserve the business, protect employees, and give the label an opportunity to continue operating while securing its future.

Receivership offered a potential route to restructuring the company, but it failed to produce a viable solution. The founders had already withdrawn from Paris Fashion Week in March amid the dispute and subsequently missed the following season, leaving Coperni absent from the city’s official fashion calendar.

Wednesday’s announcement confirms that efforts to resolve the situation have reached an end. However, the founders have not publicly detailed what the closure means for employees, suppliers, or retailers with outstanding orders.

The Dispute With Tomorrow London Group

At the center of Coperni’s financial difficulties was its relationship with Tomorrow London Group. The fashion development platform had held a majority stake in the label while also serving as its exclusive distributor since 2019, giving it considerable influence over both the company’s ownership and commercial operations.

Vaillant and Meyer had been working to disentangle the brand from Tomorrow and regain independence. The dispute highlighted the difficulties independent fashion labels can face when their financial and distribution structures are closely tied to an external business partner.

The situation became more complicated in March when Progetto 11, the holding company behind e-commerce platform The Level Group, acquired Tomorrow. The transaction included the departure of Tomorrow’s previous shareholders, including founder and chief executive Stefano Martinetto and Three Hills Capital Partners.

Coperni’s attempts to resolve its own situation unfolded alongside that change in ownership. However, the precise effect of the acquisition on negotiations surrounding the Paris label has not been publicly established.

With the closure now confirmed, the efforts to separate Coperni from Tomorrow have failed to secure the brand’s future, ending a relationship that had shaped its business operations for several years.

Coperni’s Legacy in Paris Fashion

Despite its relatively short existence, Coperni established a distinctive identity through its combination of technology, experimental presentations, and digitally driven fashion moments. Founded by Vaillant and Meyer, the label became known for turning runway shows into spectacles that attracted attention well beyond the traditional fashion industry.

Among its most widely discussed presentations was a show at Disneyland Paris, which featured Kylie Jenner in a princess-inspired gown. Another memorable moment came when Bella Hadid appeared nearly naked on the runway as a dress was spray-painted directly onto her body, creating one of the most widely circulated fashion show moments of recent years.

The brand also developed a strong accessories business, particularly through its Swipe bag, whose distinctive shape became one of Coperni’s signature designs. Together, these creations helped establish the label as a recognizable name among a new generation of Paris-based fashion houses.

Coperni’s closure marks the end of a brand that built much of its identity around experimentation and spectacle. While its founders have not outlined what comes next for them, the announcement brings an abrupt conclusion to eight years of work that helped make the label one of the more talked-about names in contemporary Paris fashion.

Featured image: Coperni

 

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