Anthony Vaccarello is stepping down as creative director of Saint Laurent after 10 years at the helm, the French fashion house confirmed on Friday, October 9, 2026. The announcement brings an end to a decade in which the Belgian designer reshaped the label’s runway identity, expanded its cultural influence, and helped establish it as one of the most commercially successful names in luxury fashion. Saint Laurent said it would announce its new creative leadership soon.
The departure follows the brand’s Spring/Summer 2027 show at Paris Fashion Week on September 29, which had already prompted speculation about Vaccarello’s future. Staged beneath the Eiffel Tower, the presentation featured a striking progression of gold and black looks that revisited the house’s signature codes. The show’s emotional atmosphere, combined with the designer’s decision to forgo the usual preview interviews, now reads as a fitting conclusion to his tenure.
Kering and Saint Laurent Executives Thank Vaccarello
Après 10 ans, le directeur artistique quitte ses fonctions. Son successeur n’a pas encore été désigné. https://t.co/MMB87RTLtL
— Vogue France (@VogueFrance) October 9, 2026
Luca de Meo, chief executive officer of Saint Laurent parent company Kering, praised Vaccarello’s contribution to the house in the announcement.
“I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Anthony for his contribution to Saint Laurent over the past 10 years,” de Meo said. “Through his creative vision and exacting standards, he has contributed to strengthening the enduring influence of one of France’s greatest couture houses, as we embark on a new chapter in its history.”
Cédric Charbit, president and CEO of Saint Laurent, also credited the designer with strengthening the brand’s global standing and cultural relevance.
“During his tenure, Anthony took Saint Laurent on a remarkable trajectory, elevating the house to the forefront of desirability and image, while accomplishing exceptional work both creatively and through his cultural impact,” Charbit said.
The announcement ends a partnership that began in April 2016, when Vaccarello was appointed just days after Hedi Slimane’s departure. At 36, he was already known for his provocative designs and work with Versus, Versace’s younger line, as well as his independent label, which he closed after taking the Saint Laurent position.
Spring 2027 Collection Marks Vaccarello’s Final Show
Vaccarello’s final Saint Laurent collection was presented on September 29 during Paris Fashion Week. The Spring 2027 show unfolded beneath three monumental chandeliers and the illuminated Eiffel Tower, with 49 gold-toned looks followed by 10 black ensembles.
The collection revisited familiar house signatures, including saharienne jackets, trench coats, pencil skirts, brocade, and evening dresses. The progression from gold to black created a dramatic conclusion, reinforcing the presentation’s farewell-like quality without abandoning the designer’s established aesthetic.
The show also featured a surprise performance by Charlotte Gainsbourg. Vaccarello joined the models at the finale before crossing the runway to greet his son, a moment that drew attention amid growing speculation about his future at the house.
Fashion critics had interpreted the presentation as a possible farewell even before the departure was confirmed. The official announcement now establishes the Spring 2027 collection as Vaccarello’s final runway statement for Saint Laurent.
How Vaccarello Changed Saint Laurent
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During his decade as creative director, Vaccarello developed a visual identity built around sharply tailored silhouettes, leather outerwear, sheer eveningwear, and sensual proportions. His collections drew from the legacy of founder Yves Saint Laurent while pushing its established codes into a more contemporary direction.
His influence extended beyond clothing. In 2023, Saint Laurent launched Saint Laurent Productions, its film production venture, which became involved in projects including Jacques Audiard’s “Emilia Pérez” and Paolo Sorrentino’s “Parthenope.” The house also expanded its cultural activities through Saint Laurent Editions and its Babylone bookshop and gallery in Paris.
The designer’s tenure coincided with substantial financial growth. Saint Laurent’s annual revenue reached approximately €3.3 billion ($3.7 billion) in 2022, more than tripling from its 2016 level. Revenue subsequently fell to €2.64 billion ($2.97 billion) in 2025 amid a wider luxury market slowdown and changes to the brand’s distribution strategy. Kering reported that the house returned to growth in the first half of 2026.
Despite the more challenging market conditions, Vaccarello maintained a distinct creative direction that strengthened the label’s visibility across fashion and culture.
Who Will Replace Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent?
Farewell Anthony. Moving on if rumors are to be believed Chemena Kamali the CD of Chloé is gonna be taking over I’m gonna go feral if that’s actually true always wanted Rosé to be in Chloe it’s so HER. https://t.co/iMoMa9PgKH
— regina_phalange (@HeyitsUs211) September 29, 2026
Saint Laurent has not yet announced Vaccarello’s successor. Chemena Kamali, the current creative director of Chloé, is widely rumored to be a potential candidate. Kamali previously served as Saint Laurent’s women’s ready-to-wear design director under Vaccarello from 2016 to 2023, although no appointment has been confirmed.
The next creative director will inherit a house with a strong visual identity and significant opportunities for expansion. Kering has identified menswear, women’s daywear, high-end leather goods, and growth in Asian markets as important areas for Saint Laurent’s future development.
Vaccarello’s next move also remains unclear. In a 2024 interview with The Wrap, he described Saint Laurent as the “Holy Grail of houses” and suggested that his next ambition might involve pursuing something entirely different.
His departure closes a defining chapter for Saint Laurent, leaving the house to determine how its next creative leader will build on a decade of work that reshaped its modern identity.
Featured image: Mert Atlas for Saint Laurent
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