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Martine Rose Makes History as Balenciaga’s First Woman Creative Director

Martine Rose Makes History as Balenciaga’s First Woman Creative Director

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Balenciaga has appointed British designer Martine Rose as its new creative director, making her the first woman to lead the French fashion house in its 109-year history. Announced on Friday, November 6, the appointment marks a significant change in the brand’s creative leadership as parent company Kering looks to strengthen its position in the luxury market and reconnect with younger fashion consumers. Rose will officially assume the Paris-based role on November 16, succeeding Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose departure was announced on Thursday.

The appointment brings Rose back to a house she knows well. Between 2015 and 2018, she worked as a menswear consultant under Demna, contributing to the development of the oversized silhouettes that became central to Balenciaga’s identity during his tenure. Nearly a decade later, she returns with responsibility for the entire house, overseeing both menswear and womenswear. Her arrival also represents a major milestone for women in luxury fashion, positioning her among a small number of Black women to lead a major European fashion house.

Martine Rose Becomes Balenciaga’s First Female Creative Director

Kering CEO Luca de Meo confirmed the appointment in a statement, describing Rose as a designer whose approach reflects Balenciaga’s history of challenging conventions and pushing creative boundaries. He also highlighted her understanding of contemporary culture and her connection to younger generations as important qualities for the brand’s next chapter.“Balenciaga has always been a house of radical creativity, challenging conventions and redefining the boundaries of fashion. Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision,” de Meo said.Balenciaga president and CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli also welcomed the appointment, praising Rose’s distinctive vision and ability to reinvent established silhouettes. He described her perspective as closely aligned with the innovative spirit that has shaped the fashion house.Rose expressed her appreciation for the opportunity, acknowledging the designers who have contributed to Balenciaga’s history while outlining her intention to build on that legacy.“It is a true privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit,” she said. “I am committed to honoring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.”

From Independent Menswear Designer to Luxury Fashion Leadership

Rose established her eponymous London label in 2007 and has since become one of the most influential figures in contemporary menswear. Her collections draw inspiration from British subcultures, including football casuals, reggae, rave culture and northern soul, translating these references into oversized tailoring, sportswear-inspired pieces and unconventional silhouettes.Her designs have attracted a considerable celebrity following, with Kendrick Lamar, Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Timothée Chalamet, Drake and Hailey Bieber among those who have worn her work. Lamar has been particularly vocal about his appreciation for the designer, having collaborated with her on custom looks for his “Big Steppers” tour in 2022. He also wore a custom Martine Rose jacket during his 2025 Super Bowl halftime performance.Beyond her main collections, Rose has developed a notable relationship with Nike, producing collaborations that have attracted attention for their reinterpretation of familiar sportswear silhouettes. The Nike Shox MR4 mule, in particular, became one of her most recognizable designs. She also served as a guest creative director at Clarks, marking a first for the British footwear company in its 200-year history.

What Rose’s Appointment Means for Balenciaga

The appointment comes as Kering works to reposition its luxury brands and strengthen their commercial performance. De Meo has identified younger consumers as an important audience for Balenciaga, making Rose’s cultural understanding and experience with products that resonate beyond traditional luxury customers particularly relevant.Her high-low approach to fashion could help the house reconnect with younger shoppers who were drawn to the brand during Demna’s tenure. Her experience in menswear also positions her to continue developing a category that became an important part of Balenciaga’s business under the previous creative leadership.However, her responsibilities will extend beyond menswear. Kering has outlined plans to double Balenciaga’s womenswear ready-to-wear business by 2030, while accelerating growth in leather goods. The latter remains an important commercial priority, with established designs such as the City and Rodeo bags contributing to the category’s performance.Rose has increasingly expanded her womenswear offering, presenting co-ed collections since 2023, although leading a major luxury house will introduce new creative and commercial demands. Her experience has primarily been rooted in independent fashion rather than the couture-focused environment associated with some of her predecessors.Her appointment is also part of a wider creative leadership reshuffle across Kering, which has seen changes at several of its fashion houses. With Rose now taking charge at Balenciaga, the industry will be watching closely to see how her distinctive perspective translates into the next era of the French luxury brand.

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