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Why Azelaic Acid Is On Our New Year’s Skincare Ingredient Spotlight

Why Azelaic Acid Is On Our New Year’s Skincare Ingredient Spotlight

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T

he New Year always ushers in a feeling of self-analysis followed by the urge to be better on all fronts, including in the beauty conversation. Yes, glowing skin is always on the glow-up list for every year. To achieve this, we know about lactic acid, arbutin, aloe vera, and many other skincare ingredients, but now it’s time to make space for the non-problematic azelaic acid. This naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid is used in skin care for acne treatments, reducing hyperpigmentation, and rosacea management.

How does it work?

Azelaic acid works by killing acne bacteria that infect skin pores, decreasing the production of keratin that promotes the growth of acne bacteria, reducing inflammation and swelling that cause redness and bumps, and inhibiting misbehaving elements that lead to skin imperfections and dullness.

Benefits of Azalaic acid for skin…

This acid offers a ton of benefits for the skin, including:

  • Mild exfoliation: Azelaic acid has mild exfoliating properties, promoting the turnover of skin cells. This can contribute to a smoother and more even skin texture.
  • Anti-inflammatory properties: It exhibits anti-inflammatory effects, which can be beneficial for reducing redness and inflammation associated with various skin conditions.
  • Non-photosensitizing: Unlike some other skincare ingredients, azelaic acid is non-photosensitizing, meaning it does not make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. This makes it suitable for daytime use.
  • Well-tolerated: Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin. It has a lower risk of irritation compared to some other active ingredients.
  • Regulation of keratinization: It normalizes keratinization processes in the skin, preventing the formation of comedones (clogged pores) and contributing to a clearer complexion.
  • Antioxidant properties: Another benefit of azelaic acid for the skin is its antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from free radical damage. Antioxidants play a role in maintaining skin health and preventing premature aging.
  • Versatility in formulations: Azelaic acid is available in various formulations, including creams, gels, and foams, providing options for different skin types and preferences.
  • Suitable for various skin tones: It is suitable for individuals with various skin tones and is less likely to cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Side effects

While azelaic acid for skin is generally well-tolerated, some individuals may experience side effects. Common side effects are typically mild and may include:

  • Skin irritation: Mild redness, itching, or burning sensation at the application site.
  • Dryness or peeling: Some individuals may experience dryness or peeling, especially when starting to use products containing azelaic acid.
  • Tingling sensation: A tingling sensation on the skin may occur, particularly in the initial stages of using products with azelaic acid.
  • Allergic reactions: While rare, allergic reactions can occur. If you notice swelling, severe itching, or hives, discontinue use and seek medical advice.
  • Contact dermatitis: In some cases, azelaic acid may cause contact dermatitis, resulting in redness, rash, or irritation. This is more common in individuals with sensitive skin.
  • Sun sensitivity: Although azelaic acid itself is non-photosensitizing, some formulations may contain other ingredients that can increase sensitivity to sunlight. It’s advisable to use sunscreen during the day.
  • Hypopigmentation: In rare cases, azelaic acid has been associated with hypopigmentation (lightening of the skin). This is uncommon and typically reversible upon discontinuation.

Precautionary measures

When using azelaic acid for the skin, here are some precautionary measures to consider:

  • Use sun protection: It is advisable to use sunscreen during the day when using products containing azelaic acid as it may increase sensitivity to the sun.
  • Speak to an expert if pregnant or breastfeeding: If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, it’s important to consult with a healthcare professional before using products containing azelaic acid.
  • Consult a dermatologist for skin conditions: For specific skin concerns or conditions, it’s recommended to consult with a dermatologist who can provide personalized recommendations based on your skin type and needs.
  • Test your skin first: Always patch-test new skincare products and consult with a healthcare professional or dermatologist to determine the most suitable products for your skin concerns. 

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Featured image: Liz Collins for Dior Beauty via @yarashahidi/Instagram 


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