This week saw the conclusion of Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023, capping off a month-long fashion trip that included stops in New York, London, and Milan. When it came to Paris’ turn, the City of Love played host to shows by both established houses and rising names, from home and abroad. Paris, home to historic ateliers like Dior, Saint Laurent, and Givenchy, has long been associated with exquisite style and craftsmanship, and the offerings seen at the FW23 shows proved this once again.
This season came complete with debuts made by designers like Ann Demeulemeester and Nina Ricci (both have new creative directors in Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Harris Reed respectively), runway returns including Alexander McQueen’s return to Paris after showing in London and New York in recent seasons (Paco Rabanne and Y/Project also made a return to the womenswear season), and rising names like Vaquera, Ester Manas and Weinsanto, which brought new energy to the week.
With the presentation of its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Dior kicked off Paris Fashion Week. Three particular women, Catherine Dior, Edith Piaf, and Juliette Gréco, whose sense of style and passion precisely encapsulate the essence of the brand, were honored by Maria Grazia Chiuri in her celebration of the 1950s through her designs. Anthony Vaccarello’s Winter 2023 collection for Saint Laurent paid attention to the brand’s aesthetic with an iconic silhouette that included strong shoulders, angular lines, and timeless cuts. This represented Saint Laurent’s DNA in its purest form and was the height of cool.
A complete everyday wardrobe was displayed at Schiaparelli’s first Ready-to-Wear catwalk show in Paris but in the Schiaparelli style. In order to create a full wardrobe for the woman who doesn’t want to blend in, the founder of the brand, Elsa Schiaparelli stretched the boundaries of fashion and found new ways to exhibit her lavish haute couture characteristic norms. Following the tragic passing of Paco Rabbane last month, the company’s Fall/Winter 23 collection honored him with a selection of famous vintage gowns to wrap up the presentation. The collection, which marked the start of the next phase for the house, featured bizarre silhouettes, vibrant colors, and fun designs.
Elie Saab’s “A Floral Renaissance” Fall/Winter 2023 collection celebrates a daring, free-spirited woman with vibrant colors, eye-catching floral designs, seductive textures, and edgy silhouettes. Intricate embroidery, beading, sparkling sequins, and tulle were used by the designer to add a sense of illumination to the outfits. Meanwhile, Victoria Beckham’s Fall/Winter 2023 fashion show in Paris was attended by her four children, husband David Beckham, and other family members. This was the designer’s second show in the French capital. The collection paid homage to a daring and fearless approach to dressing — the contagious passion for the art of dressing that sparked Beckham’s own interest in fashion and still inspires her creative endeavors.
Gimmicks being pulled off on the runway have become a fairly common sight throughout fashion week. Labels have been stepping up their collections every year, from Bella Hadid’s spray-on dress to the newest PFW exhibit of Danish designer Heliot Emil’s “on-flame” ensembles. At the Anrealage show, models strolled in pairs and posed in front of a UV light that scanned them from top to bottom. These white clothes abruptly changed colors in front of everyone’s eyes thanks to the “experimental, photochromic materials” that the brand created.
During Paris Fashion Week, models and canine automatons shared the runway as Coperni took us to the world of super-robots. Le Loup et l’Agneau, which translates to “The Wolf and The Lamb,” was the inspiration for the theatrical performance in which models, including Kate Moss’s daughter Lila Moss, posed among five robots. Models served as the wolves, and five robot canines were the lambs. The performance, which took place at the Théâtre National de la Danse, has elements of the Spring 1999 Alexander McQueen show.
With each day of Paris Fashion Week bringing a new round of wardrobe inspiration for the season ahead, we kept track of the standout looks as soon as they hit the runway.
Take a look at some of our favorite designs from Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023 shows…
Schiaparelli
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Paco Rabbane
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Hermès
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Alexander McQueen
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Nina Ricci
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Victoria Beckham
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Stella McCartney
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Giambattista Valli
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Issey Miyake
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Off-White
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Balmain
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Miu Miu
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See the full collections on Vogue Runway.
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