Balmain is expanding its creative direction under Antonin Tron, with the designer bringing his sensual approach to the house’s menswear department for the first time. Unveiled for pre-spring 2027, the debut collection introduces a wardrobe of sharply tailored suits, leather outerwear, silk shirts and relaxed denim, trading some of the logo-driven streetwear that has defined the brand’s recent menswear identity for a more expressive, rock-influenced aesthetic. The collection marks a new chapter for Balmain Menswear, arriving one year after Tron was appointed creative director.
Having established a distinct visual language through his first womenswear collections, Tron is now extending that sensibility to the men’s wardrobe. The direction is deliberately aligned with the sensuality of his womenswear, bringing together confident silhouettes, elaborate fabrics and a relaxed attitude toward dressing. Accompanying the collection is a provocative campaign photographed by Matthias Vriens, featuring bare-chested models lounging in hay and posing in minimal clothing. Together, the images and designs introduce a more unapologetic vision of masculinity for the French luxury house.
A More Sensual Vision for Balmain Menswear
Speaking about his first men’s collection, Tron explained that he wanted to introduce something particularly sexy, reflecting the same energy running through his womenswear. The accompanying campaign reinforces that intention with imagery that draws on punk references, playful sensuality and the provocative photography.
The approach represents a notable change in emphasis for Balmain Menswear, which has largely been associated with logo-heavy T-shirts, sweatshirts and sneakers in recent years. While those categories helped establish the label’s position during the luxury streetwear boom, Tron’s debut places greater attention on tailoring, leather goods, outerwear and eveningwear. The result is a more complete wardrobe that moves between casual dressing and formal occasions without losing its rebellious character.
California Counterculture Informs the Collection
Rather than revisit the house’s extensive archives, Antonin Tron looked toward California counterculture for inspiration. The designer drew on the experimental spirit of 1970s surf culture, alongside the wardrobes of musicians and Hollywood personalities who have shaped his understanding of masculine style.
His references include Hawaiian surfer David Nuuhiwa, musicians Lou Reed and Andrew Eldritch of The Sisters of Mercy, as well as actors Brad Pitt and Matthew McConaughey during their 1990s Hollywood years. These influences come together in a collection that moves between rugged workwear, rock-and-roll dressing and more extravagant luxury pieces.
Faded denim, heavy canvas trousers, leather jackets and leopard-print silk shirts establish much of the collection’s character. Metal rivets, distressed finishes and side-laced trousers introduce additional detailing, while embroidered leather jackets and richly textured fabrics bring a more elaborate dimension to the offering.
Tailoring and Eveningwear Take a Bigger Role
One of the most significant elements of Tron’s debut is its renewed focus on menswear tailoring. The designer approached suits with the intention of finding a middle ground between the restrictive proportions of overly slim tailoring and the exaggerated volume of oversized silhouettes.
The resulting designs feature defined shoulders, shaped waists and comfortable proportions. Double-breasted suits stand out for their controlled silhouettes, while velvet dinner jackets and gilded blazers extend the collection into evening dressing. A particularly striking double-breasted pony-hair coat also adds a dramatic statement to the outerwear selection.
Tron has incorporated several fabrics and design elements from his womenswear collections, including jacquards and fil coupé textiles. Some pieces, such as embroidered leather jackets, lace-up trousers and embellished denim, were conceived with a degree of versatility that allows them to sit comfortably across both wardrobes.
For the designer, this connection is central to the house’s identity. He views the men’s and women’s collections as expressions of the same creative vision, sharing materials, attitude and an underlying rock influence.
Balmain Looks to Grow Its Men’s Business
The debut also forms part of a broader business strategy under Balmain chief executive officer Matteo Sgarbossa. Menswear currently represents approximately 20 percent of the company’s business, but the executive has outlined ambitions to increase that figure to between 30 and 35 percent through a more comprehensive product offering and a stronger fashion identity.
The pre-spring 2027 collection will be available in 18 of Balmain’s 44 boutiques, with selected wholesale partners including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Net-a-Porter and Mytheresa. The expanded assortment is expected to give the house greater visibility in the luxury menswear market.
With his first collection, Antonin Tron has introduced a direction that moves Balmain Menswear beyond its familiar streetwear associations without abandoning the glamour and extravagance associated with the house. The pre-spring 2027 offering is an opening statement, but it establishes a clearer creative relationship between the men’s and women’s departments and gives Balmain a new foundation for its next phase.
Check out more photos from Antonin Tron’s Balmain menswear debut…
Featured image: Matthias Vriens
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